Celebrating Tết

On the 23rd day of the 12th month of the Vietnamese lunar calendar (4 days ago on 26 January), the Vietnamese prayed to the Kitchen God (Ông Táo) with offerings of sugarcanes, fruits and chicken, so that he can ascend to the heavens and make a favourable report of the family when he meets the Jade Emperor. Some of the prayer items are shown below:

Prayer Chicken

Mandarin Oranges

Due to the unforgiving cold weather, the peach blossoms (hoa đào) have suffered. (Read 'Cold ruins peach blossom harvest' here). So I can show you the rather unspectacular sight of a rather bald pink peach blossom tree. Apologies for the fuzzy image of the hoa đào flower up close, but you may be just able to make out how it looks from the flowers in the background of the picture on the right.

Pink peach blossom (hoa đào) tree

Close-up view of hoa đào

The Vietnamese government has declared that the period from 31 January to 7 February 2011 will be official holidays for Tết. Tết falls on 3 February, and coincides with the Chinese Lunar New Year this year.

Already the Vietnamese people are returning in droves to their home towns, leading to massive traffic jams everywhere. You can see motorcyclists with all kinds of bulky items on their bikes - pots of kumquat, hoa đào, large boxes, etc. Everyone is going back home to attend the important reunion dinner on the eve of Tết.

If you are travelling to Vietnam during this time, be prepared to pay expensive prices for food in upmarket restaurants. Most shops will be closed during this time. For 31st January and 1st February, banks will also keep some of the branches open for basic transactions.

Our next destinations will be Malaysia and Singapore. So stay tuned.

The Tết Celebrations have already begun

Tết is the most important festival in Vietnam. Also known by its longer name of Tết Nguyên Đán, it is a time for reunion dinners, ancestral worships, giving lì xì (lucky money), temple visiting, and uttering New Year greetings.

Typically, two to three weeks before Tết, businesses start to slow down, and bosses take the opportunity to throw lunches to thank their staff for their contributions over the past year, and to celebrate the upcoming Tết.

Bánh chưng is a common dish for any Tết celebration. It reminds me of the Chinese rice dumpling. But unlike the pyramidal-shaped Chinese rice dumplings with many variations in terms of flavours, it is rectangular in shape, and it is typically made of pork, bean fillings and sticky rice.

Another popular dish is Thịt Kho Nước Dừa, which is made of fatty pork stomach and medium boiled eggs stewed in a broth-like sauce made overnight of young coconut juice and nuoc mam.

Toasting one another is customary during such lunches. They will all join in a chorus of "Một, hai, ba, uống!" ("one, two, three, drink!"), and down their glasses of whisky or beer.

So, let's make a toast to Tết:

Một, hai, ba, uống!

It's Buzzing at 69 Bar and Restaurant

On the recommendation of a waitress at a restaurant (I have deliberated omitted mentioning the name of this restaurant to avoid any harm to the kind-hearted waitress) nearby, I patronised 69 Bar and Restaurant on last Friday evening.

The place was absolutely buzzing with people. I was ushered to a bar table in front of the door. Shortly after my arrival, arriving guests were told that they had to wait 30 minutes for a table. Some of them did not mind buying a drink and standing at the bar counter, while they waited to be seated.

I ordered the grilled duck "Hanoi" style and 69's cocktail. The food was pleasant, but the service was really good.

So if you want to try Vietnamese food in a pub setting and to meet fellow travellers, you may want to visit:

69 Bar and Restaurant
69 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Tel: +84 4 3926 1720

It only gets better at Tamarind Cafe

I probably passed by Tamarind Café more than 20 times, before I entered it. The changing point came after I posted my review on Cafe Smile in the Lonely Planet website. Overnight, Cafe Smile became the #6 (initially it was #35) of 110 things to do in Hanoi, and ranked just above it at #5 was Tamarind Café.

One thing that threw me off completely initially are the prices in US dollars. I have got pretty used to paying for things in Vietnamese dong. All at once, I felt disoriented. I can't be punching all the prices into my calculator and find the equivalent prices in Vietnamese dong.

One of the house specials is the Tamarind mushroom steak (USD6.30). It had a patty of mushroom coated in rich, black pepper mushroom sauce, and little bits of carrot and brocolli on the side of the plate. It is not something which I will crave for again.

I was prepared to say that vegetarian food was just simply something that I would gladly give a miss after my first experience three weeks ago.

But as things turned out, I visited it again last week. I ordered the Crispy Mushrooms (USD2.90), Taboule (USD3.60) and Tamarind Exotic (USD2.20).

Crispy Mushroom and Tamarine Exotic

Taboule

I enjoyed the refreshing taste of Tamarind Exotic, a blend of tamarind, pineapple and sugarcane. Then came the Crispy Mushrooms - I enjoyed eating them drenched in soya sauce. But the true star of the meal was the Taboule. Made from wheat grain, mint, lime, fresh vegetables and pumpkin seeds, every mouthful was delicious.

On my last visit two days ago, I tried the Surprising Sweet Potato (USD4.10), Eggplant Claypot (USD5.60), and Tangerine Dream (USD2.50).

Surprising Sweet Potato and Tangerine Dream

Eggplant Claypot

I absolutely enjoyed the Surprising Sweet Potato. Every clump of piping hot mashed sweet potato had a different flavour - wasabi, garlic and peanut. I liked the wasabi one best. The Eggplant Claypot is a mix of egglant and bean curd steamed in spicy and sour sauce. It was ok for me. The Tangerine Dream is a blend of tangerine and banana. I prefer the Tamarine Exotic.

Anyway, one man's meat can be another man's poison. You should try the food yourself, and formulate your own opinion of it.

Tamarind Café
Address: 80, Mã Mây, Hanoi
Tel: +84 3926 0580

You can be at risk!

I thought my friends were joking.

Last week, they told me that the tap water was contaminated with arsenic. I have been boiling water from the tap in my hotel room to drink. According to them, boiling the water doesn't make the water safe to drink.

So I said if that's the case, then we are all at risk, since most food is probably cooked with water direct from the taps. We will all die from arsenic poisoning. They said I was right.

After that conversation, I consciously chose purified drinking water to quench my thirst.

Then I chanced upon the following story from the Straits Times: Drinking water in Vietnam has excessive arsenic.

The astounding fact is that more than a quarter of drinking wells in the Red River delta contain unsafe toxic levels of arsenic and manganese. This can potentially cause cancer, neurological problems and hypertension.

Don't take a risk with your health when you are in Vietnam. Stick to safe bottled drinking water.

Highlands Coffee Great Lunch Offer

If you are thinking that all Highlands Coffee outlets are the same, you are wrong.

I have been patronising Highlands Coffee outlets around Hanoi, including the ones at Hoan Kiem Lake and Vincom Tower.

Most people come for coffee. Not surprising. Afterall, Highlands Coffee aspire to serve the perfect cup of coffee.

However, one of the reasons I have been patronising this particular Highlands Coffee outlet on the 3rd floor of Trang Tien Plaza is the set lunch, which comprises one main dish, one soup and your choice of coffee or lime juice, for only VND55,000.


If you have been to Vietnam, you will know this is a fantastic offer. Only from 11am to 2pm. Not sure weekends are included, though the promotional banner does not put any limitation clauses.

Mind you this offer is only specific to this specific Highlands Coffee outlet, as confirmed by the one of the staff. There may be also lunch set promotions at other outlets (e.g. at Vincom Tower), but these outlets do not offer a complimentary drink, and the set lunches are more expensive.


Address:
3rd Floor, Highlands Coffee (Trang Tien Plaza)
24 Hai BA Trung street,
Hoàn Kiếm District, Hanoi.

Revisiting (Infamous?) Chả cá Lã Vọng

Of all the restaurants recommended by the Lonely Planet, this must stand as one of the more controversial ones - Chả cá Lã Vọng.

'Rip-off', 'Rude', 'Over-rated', 'Tourist trap' - these are some of the recurrent terms used in reviews on virtualtourist.com.

I also noted that the prices have been going up from VND70,000 in 2005 to VND 90,000 in 2008, and to VND 100,000 in 2009.

I decided to visit it today to see if it lives up to its (infamous?) reputation. Here's the price today.

The rising prices of this popular Chả cá dish are reflective of the high inflation rate in Vietnam. Just simply observe the astounding inflation rate of 24.4% in 2009! The inflation rate was 11% in 2010.

It didn't take long for the dish to arrive once you place your order.

Chả cá is a fried fish dish, spiced up with tumeric, dill, spring onions, peanuts and sweet sauce, and eaten with rice noodle.

Chả cá - the whole works!

A closer look at the fish and spices sizzling in oil

The waitress will pour the bowl of fish slices, and the bowl of spring onions into the sizzling oil. Thereafter, you have total control of how you want to eat it.

I read somewhere that you are supposed to eat the cold rice noodle with the peanuts, fried fish slices and spring onions. I chose to throw everything in, including the rice noodles, peanuts.

So how's the food?

It definitely was oily at first. The fish slices were fried to a crispy brown on the outside, and tasted wonderful. The noodles soaked up pretty much of the oil, so naturally tasted oily. I also enjoyed scraping the fried spring onions from the pan and eating it.

One of the common grouses is the small portion of rice noodles that comes with the dish. As an Asian, I found the portion small too.

Are they overcharging?

It really depends on your perception of its value.

Some people have voiced suspicions that they charge foreigners more than the locals. With my little grasp of Vietnamese, I can tell you no. Foreigners are charged the same as locals.

Would I recommend Chả cá Lã Vọng?

Seriously, if local Vietnamese are prepared to pay the hefty price of VND120,000 per person for Chả cá, it certainly says something about the quality of food.

Chả cá Lã Vọng also enjoys a long heritage. Apparently, this dish has been served for over 200 years by 5 generations. Just imagine that!

If this Chả cá dish can be the source for the street name, surely it is worth a try.

Chả cá Lã Vọng
Address: 14 Phố Chả Cá, Hanoi

A Romantic Getaway at Paris-Deli

Nestled in the middle of a row of old shophouses in Church Street (Phố Nhà Thờ), I was amazed at the spaciousness of Paris-Deli's interior, the exquisite table cloth, and fine cutlery.

Varnished wooden staircases bridge the three main floors and one mezzanine area for dining. The whole place was brightly lit, and the four large panes of windows in the mezzanine area just seemed to accentuate the expansiveness of the whole place. You can even dine on the balcony on the mezzanine floor, but since it's getting rather chilly these days in Hanoi, it may be a better idea to dine indoors.

Spacious Interior of Paris-Deli

Even though it claims to be a 'Boulangerie et Cafe', it offers more than that. They offer a fine selection of Vietnamese cuisine, burgers, Italian pasta, alcohols, coffees and beers.

Macaroni tossed with Ham, Bacon and Cheese and Watermelon and Strawberry Lassi

A tip is expected when you pay the bill. Should you overlook this, don't be surprised when the waiter's face turns sulky.

Paris-Deli Boulangerie et Cafe has 2 outlets:
(1) 13 Phố Nhà Thờ
Tel: +84 4 3928 6697

(2) 6 Phan Chu Trinh
Tel: +84 4 3934 5269/70

Definitely a place for a romantic getaway!

Heartwarming Cafe Smile

I can only smile.

I love the smiling welcome from the staff;

I feel at home with the bright cheery interior;

The delectable treats satisfy my hungry stomach;

Hence, I can only smile.

Operated by the Hoa Sua School, Cafe Smile provides training and employment to disadvantaged youth in the hospitality industry.

It offers unbelievable value, with great tasty food at affordable prices. I had trà xanh (green tea), xúp rau nấm tươi (vegetable and mushroom soup), chả mực đặc biệt (fried squed balls) and cá rô phi chiên giòn (special-fried tilapia) - all for VND125,000. Wow!

Cá rô phi chiên giòn (special-fried tilapia)

Chả mực đặc biệt (fried squed balls)

Cafe Smile is also listed as #6 of 110 things to do in Hanoi by the Lonely Planet Guide.

Cafe Smile
Address : 5 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Hanoi
Phone: +84(0)4 3843 8850

Support a worthy cause by dining at Cafe Smile.

Truly Refreshing Experience at Gecko

I can only say it was a pleasant surprise.

It is not the first time that I am eating at Gecko today. I have previously visited the outlet on Luong Ngoc Quyen Street on 2 occasions.

My first experience left me with a dread for the long wait it takes for the food to arrive on the table. Admittedly, the food was good, and it was one of the tastiest steaks I have eaten in Hanoi. But the wait was enough to kill me. It took close to 1.5 hours before the steak finally arrived on the table.When I threatened to cancel my order, that was when finally some action was taken, and my steak arrived on my table 10 minutes later. I remember another couple continually asking about the status of their order too.

I believe in giving second chances before I write my feedback on the restaurant. I resolved to go to the restaurant only when I had plenty of time to kill.

On my second visit to the Luong Ngoc Quyen outlet, there were fewer people that day. I can't remember how long I waited. But I have been conditioned to wait. The 2 backpackers seated on the adjacent table asked the waitress to expedite their orders as they were rushing for the train. I also recall that the smoked salmon steak with wasabi mashed potato tasted absolutely smashing.


Smoked salmon steak with wasabi mashed potato

What a surprise I had at the Hang Bo Street outlet today! I had a most scrumptious grilled beef with mustard sauce, tasty Bart Simpson (mocktail), and crepe chocolate - all served in triple quick time, for the price of VND152,000 (USD1=VND20,000). I also enjoyed the conversation with the co-owner, a Mr. Thomas Viet, who extolled on the importance of good service in his line of business.

Finally, Gecko is living up to the mantra 'Good Service - Inexpensive Price', that appears prominently at the bottom of the namecard.

Gecko Bar - Cafe - Fasfood is a chain of restaurants in Hanoi, with outlets at the following addresses:

(1) 89 Hang Bo Street, Tel: 043 9234000
(2) 22 Luong Ngoc Quyen Street, Tel: 043 9262382
(3) 86 Hang Quat Street, Tel: 043 8288773

It is also featured in the Lonely Planet Guide to Vietnam.

If you want to try Gecko, do try the Hang Bo outlet...unless, of course, you are prepared to wait.

State Bank of Vietnam

This stately-looking building is home to the State Bank of Vietnam (SBV) (Ngân Hàng Nhà Nước Việt Nam).



It is located close to the Old Quarters at 46, Lý Thái Tổ, Q.Hoàn Kiếm, Vietnam.

It is becoming difficult to take a nice picture of this building, with tall skyscrapers of BIDV Tower and Vietcombank Tower sprouting in the streets behind and dwarfing the building.

I resorted to squatting on the street corner opposite the building, and angling the camera upwards to capture this image. If you look closely, you can still see the Vietcombank Tower jutting out just slightly above the top of the SBV building as a backdrop to the Vietnamese state flag fluttering on top of the SBV building.

You can read more about SBV here.